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LADIES' AND CHILDREN'S 5 CLOTHING. 



Copyrighted May 18th, 1880, [No. 771 G L. 




J. A. STUDABECKER, 

^ Unventor & Proprietor,, 



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SAN FRANCISCO, CAL 



WlNTEflBURN & CO'S PRINT, 




XX. ^£ . COTrEXST, 



COMMISSION MEECHANT 



AND 



PURCHASING AGENT. 

ALSO, GENEEAL AGENT FOR 

THE CALIFORNIA SACK-HOLDER. 



306 DAVIS STREET, SAN FRANCISCO. 



CONSIGNMENTS SOLICITED. 




Lamp Bracket for Sewing Machines. 

This is a recent invention and one of more than ordi- 
nary merit. By reference to the cut, it will be seen that 
the Bracket fastens to the table by means of a set-screw, 
under the table. The arm that supports the lamp turns round in the upper 
socket, and can be adjusted so that the light will fall exactly where its suits 
the operator. Any baud lamp can be used with the Bracket. The spring 
brass fingers that clasp the lamp hold it so firmly that it cannot be shaken 
from its position. With this Bracket a common coal oil lamp is better to sew 
by than city gas, because you can have the light close to your work and exactly where 
it is needed. By the use of a shade the eye is entirely protected. This is an article 
that we are not afraid of recommending too highly. There is a little socket that goes 
with each one to fasten to the wall. Two styles of finish, German bronze and nickel 
plate. 

SIX-WHEEL SEWING MACHINE CASTORS. 

The cut represents one-inlf set 
of castors, which supports two legs 
of the Sewing Machine. The end 
with one wheel should be placed 
next to the operator. The same 

pattern fits all machines, and can be attached to any one in five minutes. They never 

need to be taken off, as the machine stands perfectly steady with them on while in use. 

With these castors on, the heaviest machine can be removed from one room to another 

with ease. 

Send for Catalogue No. 20, and 

Price-List of Useful Inventions. 

WIESTER & CO., 17 New Montgomery Street, 

San Francisco, Cal. 





TRADE 



MARK. 



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GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 



Before beginning to draft, study square carefully and locate 
every line, point and grade; also the names of the different 
curves on square ; so that, when referred to in instructions, you 
will know just how to place square to get certain dots, lines 
or curves. This will facilitate your drafting very much, and 
make it easier for you to learn. 

We use the half inches the same as full inches, for conven- 
ience only, as it saves the necessity of dividing measures to 
ascertain what would be one-half of each measure ; in drafting 
patterns, you will remember we only cut one-half of the garment. 
Always place your lining double on table ; then pin pattern to 
lining and trace all sewing lines, which punctures both pieces at 
the same time, and makes them just alike. 

Note. — When beginning drafting, always take wide end of 
square in left hand. 

2d. Never pick up square in drafting, as you can move it 
around on the paper with more ease. 

3d. In placing square on paper to draw base line or (1), 
always lay it so as to bring line one inch from edge of paper, 
except for double-breasted garments, which you make four inches 
from edge. 



4th. All seams can be made curved as well as straight. o^ 

5th. Seams can be placed to suit the form or the taste of customer or 
operator. 

6th. To cut French back with side form drafted on front take from 
width of back waist as much as will *make it the required width to suit the 
form or taste of the customer, and add same to front waist, making curved 
line on front to fit into back. 

7th. To draft any kind of garment that does not appear in this book 
all you will have to do is to use the rule for cutting drapery, using up your 
measure. 

8th. To cut Postilion Basque find the distance you wish to have it open 
below the waist, then square out and add one-half inch to back-slope line, 
making the skirt one-half inch wide below the opening; make all seams that 
are to be opened after the same rules. 

9th. For vest front find distance you wish it to run below waist line, 
and make dot, then measure from base line as far as you want the vest to 
appear, making this dot about two inches nearer waist line than point of vest, 
on base line these points are generally cut away at the points about two 
inches, but they can be cut square or rounding if preferred. 

10th. For double breasted, when close fitting, cut the lapell on one side 
only. It can be cut on either side to suit taste; they can be cut to any fash- 
ion plate by using the rule for cutting drapery. 

11th. To cut coat or rolling collar, draw base line and make dot at cor- 
ner of square and neck measure by half inches, calling neck measure one 
inch larger than it is; then square out by left-hand dot, and make dot at four 
inches or the width wished for collar at points in front, then square by right- 
hand dot, and make dot at two inches or width to suit taste for back of collar; 
place " Hip Spring " line to width of front-point dot, and curved edge of 
square to back end dot, and draw curved line from one dot to the other, add 
one-half inches to the right of right-hand dot, and make straight line from 
there to back end dot, which is slope for collar at back of neck, then add one 
inch to left of left-hand dot on base line from last dot to front width dot, and 
draw straight line. 

12th. For standing collar draw' base line, make dot at corner of square 
and at neck size by half inches only one inch larger; square out at both dots, 
and make dots at two inches from base line; then place " Hip Spring" line 
left hand dot on base line and curved edge of square to right-hand dot, and 
draw curved line; move same curve out to next two dots at same place 
on square and draw corresponding curved line from one dot to the other; 
make left-hand outer corner rounding, and right-hand outer corner about 
one-fourth inch longer than at base line, and draw straight line across end, 
this end is for back of neck. 

13th. In cutting for children you will find curve at narrow end of square 
very useful for arm hole and neck, as curve is shorter and was intended for 
that purpose. 



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No. Darts, 



ORDER OF TAKING MEASURES. 


ORDER OF DRAFTING. 


BACK. 

1. Length of Back 


1. Neck 


3. Bust 


2. Shoulder Slope 


4. Width of Back 


3. Arm Size 


5. Chest 

6. Under Arm 

7. Shoulder Slope 


L Waist 


5. Width of Back 


8. Waist 

9. Hight of Dart 


FRONT, 

1. Neck 

2. Length of Front . , 

3. Shoulder Slope 


10. Length of Front 

11. Length of Back 


12. Hips 

13. Length of Skirt 




4, Bank Arm Seam. . 


SLEEVE. 


5. Under Arm 


6. Waist 


7. Bust 


2. Elbow 

3. Cuff 

4. Top. . ". 


8. Back Shoulder 


9. Chest 

10. Hight of Dart.. 


11. Hips | 



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Directions for Taking Measures. 



-*♦— ♦—-•-*- 



Put a Cord Around the Waist, Tie it Tight, and Push it Down as Far as you can. 



1st. Neck. — Smooth (inside collar). 

2d. Arm-size. — Place tape-measure under arm; draw it close up with end 
on bone in point of shoulder; take measure tight. 

3d. Bust. — Smooth, around largest part of bust, and up over points of 
shoulder-blades; run your finger under tape in front, and from side to side, lift- 
ing tape from bust seeing that it is not too tight, but it must be tight enough to 
lay smooth after taking finger away in front, and not tight enough to draw in the 
bust. 



[2] 

4th. Width of Back. — Place your middle fingers under each arm close up 
and against the body, then measure straight across back from one finger to the 
other. 

5lh. Chest — Measure across the chest two inches above the under arm, and 
from arm to arm. 

6th, Under Arm.~~ Place end of tape close up under arm, and measure 
down to string around waist. 

7th. Shoulder Slope.— Take end of tape in left hand, and place it on hip 
bone, (at cord around waist) bringing right hand up to shoulder-point and over 
front down to cord within two inches of left-hand end of tape; then see what 
figure comes to seam on shoulder, which is " back-shoulder slope measure," then 
see what figure is at cord at right hand, which is " whole slope;" we will say for 
example that the figure at shoulder seam is 12 and the figure at cord is 27, we 
would then write it down 12-27. 

8th. Waist. — Take this measure as tight as you can. 

9th. Height of Dart. — Take end of tape in left hand, and place it on the most 

prominent bone in back of neck, bringing the right down one-half inch below the 
turn of the bust. 

10th. Length of Front, — Same as height of dart, and measure to cord around 
waist, and bring tape close to neck and straight down the front. 

11th. Length of Back. — From same point in back of neck down back to cord 
around waist. 

12th. Hips.— Smooth around the larger part of hips about eight inches below 
cord on waist; add four inches for fullness. For example, if hips measure 38 
inches, write it down 42. 

13th. Length of Skirt. — From cord on waist to top of foot. 

For Sleeve. 

1st. Length. — Take end of tape in left hand and place same on wrist-bone, 
bringing right hand to point of elbow, seeing what figure comes to point; then 
continue up to (where you measured for width of back) arm-pit, which is full 
length; as, for example, say the length from wrist to point of elbow is 9 inches, 
and whole length is 21 inches, you will write it 9-21. 

2d. Elbow. — Close arm up, put tape around arm, bring it over point of 
elbow, draw close. 

3d. Guff. — Around largest part of hand over thumb. 

4th. Top. — Use arm-size measure. 



ti 



TO PLACE MEASURE IN ORDER OF DRAFTING." 

For Back. 

1st, length of back; 2d, shoulder slope for back; 3d, arm size; 4th, waist; 
5th, width of back; 6th, neck. 

For Front. 

1st, neck; 2d, length of front; 3d, shoulder slope, by deducting back slope 
from whole slope, and using remainder for front; 4th, back arm seam, which is 
taken from back after*drafting, as per instructions; 5th, under arm; 6th, waist; 
7th, bust, less width of back; 8th, back shoulder, taken from back after drafting; 
9th, chest; 10th, height of dart; 11th, hips, two-thirds of whole measure. 



[3] 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING. 




Plain Back, 

1st. Draw base line or (1), and make dots at left 
hand corner of square and J inch to the right. 

2d. Move square to right i inch, and make dot 
(2) at length of back; move square to right until 
back-shoulder slope measure comes to dot (2), and 
make dot (3) at left-hand corner of square. 

3d. By looking on square you will find the words 
"back arm size;" then place the arm-size measure to 
dot (3), and make dot (4) in corner of curves. 

4th. Square by dot (2) and base line or (1), and 
draw waist line or (5). 

5th. Move square above waistline or (5), placing 
corner to base line, and make dot (6) at arrow, and 
dot (7) at waist size. 

6th. Place straight edge of square to dots (3) and 
(6), and draw line (8). 

7th. Square by dot (4) and base line, and draw 
line (9); move out to junction of lines (8) and (9), 
and make dot (10) at width of back measure. 

8th. Square by dot (3) and base line, and draw 
line (11). 

9th. Find <c shoulder point" (line on square) and 
place it parallel with line (9), with arrow in corner 
of curves at dot (10); make dot (12), and draw line 
(13). 

10th. Place straight edge of square to dots (7) 
and (10) and draw line (14;, 

11th. Square by left hand, dot on base line, and 
make dot (15) at back neck measure; make line (16) 
with back arm size curve. 

12th. Place straight edge of square at dots (12) 
and (15) and draw line (17). 

13th. Place left-hand corner of square to dot (6), 
and cross base line with straight edge of square at 
14 inches from dot (6), and draw line (18). 

14th. Place " hip spring " (line on square) par- 
allel with waist line or (5) with curve to dots (7), and 
draw line (19), draw line (20) at length of basque 
skirt. 



m 



French. Back with. Side Form. 

1st.* Draw base-line or (1), and 
make dots at left-hand corner of 
square and one-fourth of an inch 
to the right. 

2d. Move square to right one 
quarter of an inch and make dot 
(2) at length of back; move square 
to right until back-shoulder slope 
measure comes to dot (2), and 
make dot (3)] at left-hand corner 
of square. 

3d. By looking on square you 
■will find ? the words "Back arm 
size;" then place the arm-size 
measure to dot (3), and make dot 
(4) in corner of curves. 

4th. Place under arm measure 
to dot (2) and make dot (5) at left 
hand corner of square. 

5th. Square by dot (2) and 
base-line or (1), and draw waist- 
line or (6). 

6th. Move square above waist- 
line or (6), placing corner to base- 
line or (1) and make dot (7) at 
arrow, and dot (8) at size of waist 
and (9) at size of hips. 

7th. Square by dot (5) and 
base-line or (1) and draw line (11) 
8th. Square by dot (4) and 
base-line or (1) and draw line (12). 
move out to junction of lines (10) 
and (12) and make dot (13) at 
width of back measure. 

9th. Square by dot (3) and 
base-line or (l)and draw line (14). 
10th. Place " shoulder-point 
line" parallel with line (12) with 
arrow in corner of curves at dot 
(13) and make dot (15) on line 
(14); draw line (16). 

11th. Measure the distance 

between dots (8) and (9), and add 

4 the same to dot (13); make dot 

(20); add two inches to dot (20) 

and make dot (21). 

12th. Turn square over and place " front arm size" cure to dots (20) and (21), 
so as to follow line (12) about one inch, and draw line (22). 

13th. Make dot (25) as far from dot (7) as you like, varying from one to two 
and a half inches, according to size of waist; add the distance between dots (8) 
and (9) to dot (25) and make dot (26); turn square over and place "hip-spring" 
line to dot (13), bringing square to dot (25); draw line (27); move square back to 
dots (20) and (26) and draw line (28). 

14th. Place corner of square to dot (7), making straight edge of square 
cross base-line or (1) at fourteen inches; make dot (29); draw line (30). 

15th. Place one-half the distance between dots (8) and (9) to dot (25), and 
square by line (6), and make dot (31) at fourteen inches to the right; place 




f 5 ] 



straight edge of square to dots (25) and (31); draw line (32); keep pencil on dot 
(31) and square to pencil; move left-hand end to dot (26); draw line (33). 

16th. Turn narrow end of square to left-hand; find "hip spring" (line on 
square) and place it parallel with waist line or (6), with curve to dot (23); draw 
line (35) by commencing two inches to right of waist-line or (6), and continue to 
the right as far as " shoulder-jDoint" line on square; make dot (34); turn square 
end for end and place " back arm-size" curve to end of line (35) and center of 
line (24); draw line (36); place " shoulder-point" line to dot (29) with hip-spring 
curve to dot (34), and draw line at bottom of skirt. 

Back, with Seam in Arm-hole. 

1st, Draw base line or (1), and make 
dots at left-hand corner of square and \ 
inch to the right. 

2d. Move square to right \ inch, and 
make dot (2) at length of back; move 
square to right until back shoulder slope 
measure comes to dot (2), and make dot 
(3) at left-hand corner of square. 

3d. By looking on square you will 
find the words " back arms size;" then 
place the arm size measure to dot (3), 
and make dot (4) in corner of curves. 

4th. Square by dot (2) and base line 
or (1), and draw waist line or (5). 

5th. Move square above waist line or 
(5), placing corner to base line, and make 
dot (6) at arrow and dot (7) at waist size; 
make dot (8) at " back hip measure," 

6th. Place square to dots (3) and (6) 
and draw line (9). 

7th . Square by dot (4) and base line 
or (1) and draw line (10); move corner of 
square to junction of lines (9) and (10), 
and make dot (11) at width of back, by 
half-inches. 

8th. Measure distance between dots 
(7) and (8), and add same to dot (11)* 
making dot (12). 

9th. Square by dot (3) and base line 
or (1), draw line (13); place "shoulder 
point" (line on square) parallel with line 
(10) with arrow in corner of curves to 
dot (11), and make dot (14) on line (13); 
make dot (15) at one-half the distance 
between dots (11) and (14); draw line 
(16) from dot (14) to dot (15). 

10th. Square by base line and dot 
(15); draw line (17) from dot (15) out be- 
yond dot (12); place " shoulder point" 
line parallel with line (10) with arrow in 
corner of curves to dot (12); make dot 
(17); draw line (18) from dot (17) to (12). 

11th. Make dot (19) one and a half 
inches from dot (6), more or less, accord- 
ing to waist size; add distance between 
dots (7) and (8) to dot (19) and make dot 
(20); turn square over and end for end, 
and place " hip spring " line to dot (15), 




• [ 6 ] 

and bring curve to dot (19); draw line (21); move square from you until curve 
comes to dots (17) and (20); draw line (22); turn square over and end for end, 
placing corner to dot (12) and edge to dot (8); draw line (23) and measure it, 
putting length on measure blank at back arm seam. 

12th. Square by left-hand dot on base line, and make dot (24) at "back neck" 
measure; draw line (25) by " back arm size " curve; place square to dots (24) and 
(14), and draw line (26) and measure it, and put length on measure blank at back 
shoulder measure. 

13th. Place corner of square to dot (6), making straight edge cross base line 
at 14 inches to the right; draw line (27); square by one-half the distance between 
dots (19) and (20) and line (5), and make dot (28) 14 inches to the right of line 
(5); keep pencil on dot (28), and move left-hand end of square to dot (19), and 
draw line (29); move left-hand end of square to dot (20); draw line (30). 

14th. Turn square, end for end, and place "hip spring" line parallel with 
waist line or (5), and curve to dot (8), and draw line (31) to the right as far as 
" shoulder point " line on square, and make dot; place shoulder point line to 
junction of lines (1) and (27), with curve to dot at end of line (31), and draw 
line (32). 

15th. Skirt can be made as much longer as is wished, by continuing lines 
(27, 29, 30 and 31) at the same angle as far as is wished. 

16th. Make center back seam one inch longer than front; side back seams 
one half inch longer than front; finish off with slight curve from front to side 
back seam, and straight from there on to center seam. 

17th. For half-fitting make center back piece one inch longer than length 
of back measure; make curve on hips with " back arm size" curve same as in 
side form of French back. 

For Drafting* Cloak Front. 

1st. Draft base line or (1). 

2d. Square out at left hand end of base line or (1), and draw line (2); make 
dot (3) at ' ' front neck " measure, and dot (4) at J inch to right; dot (5) at " depth 
of front neck " measure. 

3d. Square by dot (4) and base line or (1), and draw line (6); make dot (7) 
at " front neck" measure. 

4th. Place " back neck " measure at dot (3), and make dot (8) at length of 
front measure on base line or (1); move square to the right, placing 
front shoulder slope measure to dot (8), and make dot (9) at left-hand corner of 
square. 

5th. Move square to right until under-arm measure comes to dot (8), and 
make dot (10) at corner of square. 

6th. Square by dot (8) and base line or (1), and draw line (11); make dot 
(13) at two-thirds of whole hip measure, 

7th. Square by dot (10) and base line or (1), and draw line (14); make dot 
(15) at bust measure, less width of back. 

8th. Square by dot (9) and base line or (1), and draw line (16). 

9th. Place corner of square to dot (7) and "length of back shoulder" 
measure to line (16); make dot (17); draw line (18) from dots (7) to (17). 

. 10th. Place "front neck" (arrow on square) to dot (5); bring curve to dot 
(7); draw line (19). 

11th. Turn wide end of square from you; place square parallel with under- 
arm line or (14) with chest measure to base line or (1), and make dot (20) at end 
of square two inches to the left of under arm line or (14). 

12th. Place corner of square to dot (15), and count to you 2 inches, and 
make dot (21). You will here remember that you added two inches to width of 
back to make the side form on back, and also that whatever you added to the 
back must be taken from the front. 

13th. Place "front-arm size" curve to dots (20) and (21) so as to follow 



I 7] 




under arm line or (14) one inch at dot (21), and draw line (22); move square 

around until " back arm size " curve comes to dots (17) and (20); draw line {'16). 

14th. Square by line (14) and dot (21), and draw line (24) to waist line or 

15th! Square by doi (13) and line (11), and make dot (25) eight inches to 
right of line (11); place "hip spring" line parallel with line (11), and bring 
curve to dot (25); draw line (26) by commencing two inches to the right oi line 
(11) and continue to the right as far as " shoulder point " line. 

16th. Place arrow in corner of curves to end of line (26), and bring back- 
arm size " curve to line (24) so as to make gradual curve; draw line (27). 

17th. Place square parallel with base line or (1) with corner £ inch to lett 
of dot (5); count to you two and one-half inches and make dot (26); place 
"back arm size" curve to dots (5) and (28), and draw line (29); place square 



[8] 

parallel with base line or (1) and corner to dot (8); count to you three inches and 
make dot 30; turn square over and end for end, and place "hip spring" line to 
dot (28) bringing curve to dot (30); draw line (31) from 28 to 30. 

18th, Place corner of square to dot (8) and count to the right thirteen 
inches; make dot (32) place corner of square to dot (30); count to right thirteen 
inches, and make dot (33); continue line (31) from dot (30) to (33) straight; place 
corner of square to dot (13); count to the right thirteen inches; make dot (34); 
draw line (35) from dots (33) to (34). 

For Drafting Front. 

1st. Draft base line or (1). 

2d. Square out at left-hand end of base line or (1), and draw line (2); make 
dot (3) at " front neck" measure, and dot (4) at one-fourth inch to right; dot (5) 
at " depth of front neck" measure. 

3d. Square by dot (4) and base line or (1), and draw line (6); make dot (7) 
at "front neck" measure. 

4th. Place " back neck" measure at dot (3), and make dot (8) at length of 
front measure on base line or (1); move square to the right, placing 
front shoulder slope measure to dot (8), and make dot (9) at left-hand corner of 
square. 

5th. Move square to right until back arm seam measure comes to dot (8); 
make dot (10) at corner of square; move square to the right until under arm meas- 
ure comes to dot (8); make dot (11) at corner of square. 

6th. Square by dot (8) and base line or (1), and draw waist line or (12); 
make dot (13) at whole waist measure by half inches, and dot (14) at two-thirds 
of whole hip measure, by half inches. 

7th. Square by dot (11) and base line or (1), and draw under arm line or 

( 15 )« 

8th. Square by dot (10) and base line or (1), and draw line (16); make dot 

(17) at bust measure, less width of back, by half inches. 

9th. Square by dot (9) and base line or (1), and draw line (18); place corner 
of square to dot (7), with "length of back shoulder" measure to line (18), using 
full inches, (as you take measure from back shoulder in full inches.) Make dot 
(19); draw line (20) from dots (7) to (19). 

10th. Place "front neck" (arrow on square) to dot (5), bringing curve 
to dot (7); draw line (21) around curve from dots (5) to (7). 

11th. Turn wide end of square from you; place square parallel with under 
arm line or (15), with chest measure to base line or (17), and make dot (22) 
at end of square, two inches to the left of under arm line or (15). 

12th. Place front arm size curve to dot (22), and make it follow under 
arm line or (15) one inch, and come to dot (17); make dot (23) half way be- 
tween the junction of lines (16) and (24) and dot (17), and on under arm line or 
(15); draw line (24) from dots (22) to (23); move square around till "back arm 
size" curve comes to dots (19) and (22); draw line (25). 

13th. Square by dot (14) and line (16); make dot (26); draw line (27) to 
waist line or (12); measure distance between dots (17) and (26), and add same 
to dot (23) and make dot (28); find center between dots (23) and (28), and 
make dot (29); place front arm size curve to dots (26) and (28), so as«to follow 
under arm line or (15) one inch, and draw line (30) ;• square by dot (29) and 
under arm line or (15), and draw line (31) full length of square. 

14th. Turn wide end of square from you, placing square parallel with 
waist line or (12), and "width of back waist" measure at dot (14); make dot 
(32) at back waist arrow. 

15th. Move square to left of waist line or (12), placing corner to dot (32), 
and measure in to dot (13), which gives you surplus for darts and under arm gore; 
you now reserve as much as you want for darts, and put the remainder in the 
under arm gore; for example, say the distance between dots (13) and (32) is seven 



[9] 



1—1 




inches; we then want two darts of one and one-half inches each, making three 
inches in all for darts; then deduct the amount for darts (three inches) from the 
surplus, which is seven inches, will leave four inches for the underarm gore; 
divide the four inches equally on either side of line (31), making dots (33) and 
(34); place square to dots (28) and (33), and draw line (35); move square to you 
until you come to dots (23) and (34); draw line (36); place corner of square to 
junction of lines (15) and (24), and make dot (37) at first arrow on square, at one 
aud three-quarter inches to the right; move corner of square to dot (11) and par- 
allel with base line or (1); make dot (38) at second arrow on square, at three 
and one-half inches to the right of dot (11); place back neck measure to dot (3), 
letting square be parallel with base line or (1), and make dot (39) at height of 



[10] 

dart measure; place square to dot (39), and the same distance from dot (37) as it 
is from dot (38), and draw line (40); as dots (37) and (38) are only to give the 
pitch for the darts, while dot (39) is the actual height by measure. 

16th. Place square to the right and parallel with waist line or (12), with 
corner to dot (8); make dot (41) at first arrow, and dot (42) at three-quarters of 
an inch from (41); dot (43) at three-quarters of an inch from dot (42); make dot 
(44) one inch from dot (43), and dot (45) three-quarters of an inch from dot (44); 
make dot (46) three-quarters of an inch from dot (45). 

17th. Square by dot (42) and under arm line or (15); draw line (47) from 
line (40), full length of square; square by dot (45) and line (15); draw line (48) 
from line 40, full length of square; turn square end for end; place " dart point" 
to junction of line (40) and (47) with curve to dot (43); draw line (49); move curve 
to dot (46) with "dart point" to junction of lines (40) and (48); draw line (50); 
turn square over, placing same point to junction of lines (40) and (48), and bring 
curve to dot (44); draw line (51); move square to dot (41) and junction of lines 
(40) and (47); draw line (52); turn square over, and end for end, place corner to 
dot (41) and eight inches on the square to line (47); draw line (53); keep pencil 
at eight inches on line (47); move left-hand end of square over to dot (43), and 
draw line (54); move square to dot (44) and nine inches on line (48); draw line 
(55); keep pencil on line (48) at nine inches, and move left-hand end of square to 
dot (46); draw line (56). 

18th. Make dots (57) and (58) eight inches to the right of waist line or (12), 
one-fourth inch either side of line (31); turn square end for end; place "shoulder 
point" line to line (31); move square either to right or left, so as to bring curve 
to dots (34) and (57); draw line (59) from dot (34) to dot (57), to line (31); turn 
square over; place same point to junction of lines (31) and (59), bringing curve to 
dots (33) and (58); draw line (60) from dots (33) to (58), to line (31). 

19th. Place "hip spring" (line on square) parallel with waist line or (12) 
and curve to dot (14); draw line (61) to right as far as " shoulder point " line; 
turn square, end for end, and place corner to waist line or (12), and measure to 
the right thirteen inches; make dot (62); place corner to dot (8); measure 13 
inches to right and make dot (63); draw line (64) from dot (62 to (63). 

20th. Turn wide end of square to base line even with point of highest 
dart and make dot (65), one-half inch toward you from base line or (1); draw 
line (66) from dots (5) to (65); draw line (67) from dot (65) to dot (8); place 
corner of square to dot (8) and \ inch from base line or (1), opposite bottom of 
shortest dart, and make dot (68); draw line (69), keep pencil on dot (68) and 
move left hand end of square to you till it is parallel with base line; draw line 
(70) from dots (68) to (63). 

21st. For half filling, reserve enough of surplus for two darts, putting in 
only one, and using only one-half of reserved surplus, leaving the rest in for 
fullness. As for example, whole surplus is 7 inches, we will take 3 inches for 
darts, using only one and one-half in one dart, leaving one and a-half for fullness; 
we then put the remainder which is 4 inches, in under-arm gore, one-half on 
either side of line (31), as follows: 7 inches surplus, 3 inches for darts, 
three from seven leaves four; finish under-arm gore, below waist line with 
straight edge of square; finish hip spring with " back-arm size" curve same 
as on back. For open back, lay base line to fold of goods when cutting. For 
princess or wrapper; continue base line and line (61) down to length of skirt 
measure, cut off square. 

22d. Use the same rule in all cases either for one or two darts. You can 
place darts to suit your own taste, either farther from or nearer to base line; you 
can also use more or less in darts so long as you use up the surplus. In case of 
full stomach, use slight curve to finish darts to right of waist line. 



[11] 



For Drafting" Sleeve. 

1st. Draw base line or (1); make dot (2) 
at left-hand corner of square; dot (3) one 
and a half inches to the right; dot (4) at 
measure from wrist to point of elbow; dot 
(5) at full length of sleeve; dot (G) an inch 
to right of dot (5), which is adding one 
inch for curve on top of sleeve; make dot 
(7) by counting to the left of dot (5) three 
inches for curve on bottom piece of sleeve 
or inside length. 

2d. Square by dot (2) and base line, 
and draw line (8); make dots (9; and (10) 
at cuff measure at half inches, by varying 
one inch, one-half in and out (this is by 
small figures); draw line (11) from dot (3) 
to dot (10). 

3d. Square by dot (4) and base line; 
draw line (12); make dot (13) at one and a 
half inches from dot (4); move corner of 
square to dot (13), and make dots (14) and 
(15) at elbow measure, at half inches, by 
varying two inches, one in and out; for 
example, if the elbow measure was twelve 
inches, we would mark at eleven and thir- 
teen inches by one-half measures. Same 
rule will be used at cuff and top. 

4th. Square by dot (7) and base line, 
and draw line (16). 

5th. Square by dot (5) and base line, 
and draw line (17); make dots (18) and (19) 
at top measure by varying four inches, two 
in and out, as per example. 

6th. Square by dot (6) and base line, 
and draw line (20); make dot (21) at one- 
half the distance between base line and 
dot (19), and on line (20). 
7th. Place square to dots (3) and (13), and draw line (22); move square to 
dots (9) and (14), and draw line (23); move square to dots (10) and (15), and draw 
line (24); place square to dots (13) and (7), and draw line (25); move square to 
dots (14) and (18), and draw line (26); move square to dots (15) and (19), and 
draw line (27). 

8th. Place "front arm size" curve to dot (21), making it follow line (20) 
one inch and come to dot (19); draw line (28) from dot (19) to one inch past- 
dot (21). 

9th. Turn square over and end for end, placing same curve to dot (21), so 
as to join on line (28) and come to dot (7), and draw line (29); move square around 
end for end, until "front arm size" curve comes to dot (7) and crosses line (16) 
about one inch from base line, and comes to dot (18); draw line (30). 

10th. To make sleeve gathered at elbow, vary two inches at cuff, one in and 
out; eight at elbow, four in and out; this is by half inches, as, for example, say 
cuff measure is eight inches, we would then mark at six inches and ten inches; 
and elbow measure is twelve inches, we would mark at eight and' sixteen inches, 
always at small figures. 




[121 

« 

For Drafting 1 Dolman Sleeve. 

Take measure around shoulders four inches below points, which is shoulder 
measure; also around waist over elbows and hands, which is elbow measure for 
dolman sleeve. 




1st. Draw base-line or (1) and make dot (2) at corner of square; dot (3) 
four inches down, dot (4) at back shoulder slope measure. 

2d. Square out waist-line or (5); make dot (6) at one-half the whole meas- 
ure around waist over hands and elbows, which is elbow measure (marking by 
half inches). 

3d. Square out line (7) or shoulder measure line, and make dot (8) at one-half 
of whole measure around shoulders, four inches below points (marking by half 
inches). 

4th. Square out shoulder-point line or (9); then place square to dots (6) and 
(8) and line (9) and draw line (10) full length of square; add center back waist 
width to dot (4), making dot (11); add width of back, on back arm-size line or 
(10), measuring from back slope line or (9) to curved line for sewing Dolman 
sleeve to, and make dot (12); place "front arm-size curve" (on square) to junction 
of lines (9) and (10), and to dot (12) draw curve line (13); place hip-spring curve 



[13] 



(on square) to dots (12) and 11, making it join on line (13), so as to continue on 
same curve, make line (14); place corner of square to dot (11) and cross line (1) 
at fourteen inches; and make dot (15); draw line (16). 

5th. Place square parallel with line (10), having corner to junction of line 
(9); make dot (17) at front shoulder slope measure, and dot (27) at full length of 
sleeve. 

6th. Square by line (10) and dot (17); draw line (18); make dot (18) at one- 
half of "elbow measure" (by half inches); squaring by line (10) and dot (8), and 
draw line (19) and make dot (20) at one-half of whole shoulder measure, marking 
by half inches. 

7th. Place square parallel with line (19) with chest measure at dot (20), and 
make dot (21) at corner of square; place front-arm size curve at junction of lines 
(9) and (10) and at dot (21), draw line (22) so as to join to line (13). 

8th. Place square parallel with line (18), corner to dot (18) and make dot 
(23) two inches above; place point of square to dot (21) and bring curve to dot 
(23), draw line (24); place corner of square to dot (23) and square by line (24), 
make dot (25) at cuff measure, marking by full inches; draw line (26); draw lines 
(28) and (29) to suit taste. 

For Drafting* Under-cuff for Dolman Sleeve. 

1st. Draw base line or 
(1); make dot (2) at corner 
of square; make dot (3) at 
under-arm measure, less 
one inch; make dot (4) at 
front shoulder slope meas- 
ure, less four inches. 

2d. Square by line (1) 
and dot (2), draw line (5); 
make dot (6) at distance 
between chest dot and bust 
dot, or dots (17) and (22) 
on front, move square out 
to dot (6), and make dot 
(7) at half of shoulder 
measure; then place chest 
measure to dot (7), and 
make dot (8) at corner of 
square. 

3d. Square by line (1) 
and dot (4); draw line (9); 
make dot (10) at distance 
between chest and bust, 
dots (17) and (22); "on 
front; 5 ' move corner of 
square out to dot (10) and 
make dot (11) at one-half 
of ' ' elbow measure," mark- 
ing at half inches. 

4th. Turn square around 

and place corner at dot (11) and parallel with line (9), and make dot (12) two 

inches above dot (11). 

5th. Place point of square to dot (8), and bring curve to dot (12); draw line 

(13), turn square over and keep point to dot (8) and bring curve to dot (3); draw 

line (14). 

6th. Place corner of square to dot (12) and square by line (13); make dot 

(15) at cuff measure, marking at full inches; draw line (16). 

7th. Place point of square to dot (15); bring curve to dot (3); draw Line (17). 




[14] 



For Drafting- Gabrael Back. 

1st, Draw base line or (1), and make dots at 
left-hand corner of square and J inch to the 
right. 

2d. Move square to right \ inch, and make 
dot (2) at length of back; move square to right 
until back shoulder slope measure comes to dot 
(2), and make dot (3) at left-hand corner of 
square. 

3d. By looking on square you will find the 
words '"back arms size;" then place the arm 
size measure to dot (3), and make dot (4) in 
corner of curves. 

4th. Square by dot (2) and base line or (1), 
and draw waist line or (5). 

5th. Move square above waist line or (5), 
placing corner to base line, and make dot (6) at 
arrow and dot (7) at waist size; make dot (8) at 
" back hip measure," 

6th. Place square to dots (3) and (6) and 
draw line (9). 

7th. Square by dot (4) and base line or (1) 
and draw line (10); move corner of square to 
junction of lines (9) and (10), and make dot 
(11) at width of back, by half -inches. 

8th. Square by base-line and dot (3), and 
draw line (12) 

9th. Place " shoulder point " line parallel 
with line (10) with arrow in corner of curves to 
dot (11), and make dot (13). 

10th. Square by base line and left-han.d dot, 
and make dot (14) at "back neck" measure; 
draw line (15) by "back arm size" curve; place 
corner of square to dot (14) and edge to dot 
(13); note distance from one to the other, which 
you place on measure blank at length of back 
shoulder; make dot (16) at one-half the dis- 
tance; draw line (17). 

11th. Square by base line and dot (16) and 
draw line (18) from dot (16), about four inches 
long. 

12th. Measure distance between dots (7) and 
(8), and add same to dot (16), making dot (19), 
and same to dot (11), making dot (20). 

13th. Place "shoulder point" line parallel with line (10) with arrow in 
corner of curves to dot (20), and make dot (21); draw line (22); draw line (23) 
from dot (19) to (21); place corner of square to dot (20) and edge to dot (8); draw 
line (21). 

14th. Make dot (25) one and a-half inches from dot (6). and add distance 
between dots (7) and (8); make dot (26); draw line (27) from dot (16) to (25), and 
line (28) from dot (19) to (26). 

15th. Place corner of square to dot (6), and cross base line with edge of 
square at fourteen inches to right of waist line or (5); draw line (29). 

16th. Square by one-half the distance between dots (7) and (8) and dot (25); 
make dot (30) at fourteen inches to right of waist line or (5); move left-hand cor- 
ner of square to dot (25) and draw line (31); move left-hand corner of square to 
dot (26) and draw line (32); turn square over and end for end, and place hip 




[ 15 ] 

spring line parallel with waist line or (5), and curve to dot (8); draw line (33) to 
right to "shoulder point" line; measure from dot (8) fourteen inches to the 
right, and make dot (34), and fourteen inches from dot (2) and make dot (35); 
draw line (36) straight from dots (34) to (35); place " back arm size" curve to 
lines (24) and (33 ; draw line (37). 

17th. Make dot (38) one-half inch from dot (6), and dot (39) one-half inch 
from end of line (15) draw line (40) from dots (38) to (39); make dot (41) six inches 
to right of dot (38), and on line (29); draw line (42). For all garments open in 
the back you add one-half inch to back slope line, as above. 



For Gabrael Front. 




Draft base-line or 



1st. 

(1). 

2d. Square out at left- 
hand end of base line or 
(1), and draw line (2); make 
dot (3) at "front neck" 
measure, and dot (4) at one- 
fourth inch to right; dot (5) 
at " depth of front neck" 
measure. 

3d. Square by dot (4) 
and base line or (1), and 
draw line (6); make dot (7) 
at " front neck" measure. 

4th. Place "back neck" 
measure at dot ( 3 ), and 
make dot (8) at length of 
front measure on base line 
or (1); move square to the 
right, placing 

front shoulder slope meas- 
ure to dot (8), and make 
dot (9) at left-hand corner 
of square. 

5th. Move square to the 
right until back arm seam 
measure comes to dot (8); 
make dot (10) at corner of 
square; move square to the 
right until under arm meas- 
ure comes to dot (8); make 
dot (11) at corner of square. 

6th. Square by dot (8) 
and base line or (jl), and 
draw waist line or ( 12 ) ; 
make dot (13) at whole waist 
measure by half inches, and 
dot (14) at two-thirds of 
whole hip measure, by half 
inches. 

7th. Square by dot (11) 
and base line or (1), and draw under arm line or (15). 

8th. Square by dot (10) and base line or (1), and draw line (16); make dot 
(17) afc bust measure, less width of back, by half inches. 

9th. Square by dot (9) and base line or (1), and draw line (18); place corner 
of square to dot (7), with " length of back shoulder" measure to line (18), using 



I 16 ] 

full inches, (as you take measure from back shoulder in full inches.) Make dot 
(19); draw line (20) from dot (7) half the distance to dot (19); make dot (21), 

10th. Square by base line and dot (21), and draw line (22) about four inches 
long. 

11th. Measure distance between dots (13) and (14) and add same to dot 
(21), making dot (23); add same to dot (19), making dot (24); draw line (25) from 
dot (23) to (24); place " front neck arrow" to dot (5) and curve to dot (7), and 
draw curve line to neck. 

12th. Place square parallel with under arm line or (15), wide end from you 
and chest measure to base line; make chest dot at end of square two inches above 
under arm line or (15); then add distance between dots (13) and (14) to chest dot, 
making dot (26); add same distance to dot (17), making dot (27). 

13th. Place " front arm size " curve to dot (26), and follow under arm line 
or (15) one inch, and come to dot (27); draw line (28) from dot (26) to dot (27); 
turn square around until " back arm size -" curve comes to dots (24) and (26), and 
draw line (29). 

14th. Make dot (30) two and a-half inches from dot (8), and add distance 
between dots (13) and (14), and make dot (31); place square to dots (21) and (30), 
and draw line (32); to dots (23) and. (31) and draw line (33); to dots (27) and (14) 
and draw line (34). 

15th. Make dot (35) fourteen inches to right of waist line or (12) and eight 
inches from base line; place square to dots (30) and (35), and draw line (36); to 
dots (31) and (35) and draw line (37); turn square end for end, and place " hip 
spring" line parallel with waist line or (12) and curve to dot (14), and draw line 
(38) to right as far as " shoulder point" line; measure fourteen inches to right of 
dot (14), and make dot (39); same from dot (8) and make dot (40); draw line (41) 
from dots (39) to (40). 




For Plain Princess Skirt. 

Front Piece. 

1st. Draw base line or (1) and make dot (2) 
at one and one-half inches to the right of left- 
hand end of square. 

2d. Square by base line at left-hand end and 
draw line (3); make dot (4) one-half of waist 
measure, by half inches, and dot (5) at one-half 
of hip measure, by half inches; draw line (6) 
from dot (2) to dot (4). 

3d. Square byline (3) and dot (5), and make 
dot (7) eight inches to the right of dot (5); place 
" hip spring" line to dot (4) and curve to dot 
(7), and draw line (8) to the right as far as 
" shoulder point" line; continue line (8) as far 
as length of skirt. 

4th. Measure to the right of dot (5) full 
length of skirt, and make dot (9); measure full 
length of skirt to the right of dot (2) and make 
dot (10); draw line (11) from dot (9) to dot (10); 
if more fullness is wanted in skirt, add on as 
much to dot (9) as will make it the required 
width, and bring line to dot (7). 



t $ 



[17] 



Side Gore. 

1st. Draw base line or (1). 

2d. Square by base line and at left-hand end; draw 
line (2); make dot (3) at one and a half inches; move cor- 
ner of square out to dot (3), and make dot (4) at one- 
fourth of the waist measure, by half inches, and dot (5) at 
one-fourth the hip measure, at half inches; draw line (6) 
from dot (3) so as to cross line (1) at fourteen inches to 
the right. 

3d. Square by line (2) and dot (5), and make dot (7) 
eight inches to the right of dot (5); place "hip spring" 
line to dot (4) and curve to dot (7), and draw line (8) to 
the right as far as " shoulder point " line; then continue 
line (8) as far to the right as full length of skirt, and make 
dot (9). 

4th. Measure to the right of dot (3) full length of 
skirt, and make dot (10); draw line (11) from dot (9) to 
dot (10). If you wish skirt longer behind than in front, 
make line (6) one-half inch longer than line (8), and draw 
line (11) on slight curve. 




Back Gore. 

1st. Draw base line or (1). 

2d. Square out at left-hand end of base line and 
draw line (2); make dot (3) at "back waist" arrow, 
same as in drawing back. 

3d. Measure from dot (3) and make dot (4) at one- 
fourth the whole waist measure, by half inches. 

4th. Place wide end of square to line (2) and corner, 
one and a-half inches beyond dot (4), making dot (5) 
fourteen inches to the right of line (2); draw line (6) 
from dot (4) to dot (5), and continue as far to the right 
as full length of skirt, and if longer in back add one- 
half inch to skirt length; draw line (7) from dot (3) so 
as to cross line(l) fourteen inches to the right; continue 
on to full length of skirt. If wanted longer in the 
back, continue line (7) one inch longer than skirt 
measure. 

5th. Measure to right of dot (4) full length of skirt, 
and make dot (8); measure to the right of dot (3) full 
length of skirt, and make dot (9); draw line (10) from 
dot (8) to dot (9). 

To Put Skirt Together. 

1st. Place line (8) of side gore to line (8) of front. 

2d. Place line (6) of back gore to line (6) of side 
gore. 



[18] 

To Cut Drapery. 



Take the picture of any style garment you want to imitate, and measure the 
length of it, and divide the length of person you are cutting for, by it, and that 
will give you the proportion of the picture, or, in other words, the number of 
inches to every inch; as, for example, if the picture is 5 inches long and the per- 
son's measures are, length of front, 18, and length of skirt, 42 inches, that would 
make full length — 42 and 18 — 60, which, divided by 5, gives a quotient of 12 
times, showing that the dress must be cut 12 inches for every inch in the picture. 
This rule will work in all kinds of drapery by just measuring the size of each 
piece as you wish to cut it, and then enlarge as many times as the person is larger 
than the picture. The same rule can be used in cutting collars, cuffs, or, in fact, 
any piece of trimming on the dress. By this rule you can use parts of as many 
different styles as is wished, and make each part or piece just the same as in 
picture, thereby designing as many new styles as you choose. In measuring for 
loopiugs or plaitings, measure the size of each loop or plait and add the same to 
the full length of piece as it is in picture, which will make each piece the required 
length for looping up or laying in plaits, so that your goods are always the right 
length or width, which saves goods and the annoyance of not knowing if you 
have them too short or narrow. Very many dressmakers cut their drapery a 
great deal too large, and of course the goods are wasted. 

Be careful, in measuring, to measure all points and draw lines to dot made 
by measures, and your goods will always come out the right shape and size, with- 
out your knowing exactly how you get it. 



TO TAKE MEASURES FOR SHIRT. 



Neck, over-collar, length of shoulder, from neck to point; breast same as 
bust for dress, only you add four inches for looseness; width of back same 
as for dress, only not so close; chest same as dress, only larger; under arm 
same as dress, but not so high up; shoulder slope same as dress, but divide 
it one inch back of center on top of shoulder, making back slope two inches 
shorter than front; length of back same as dress; length of front same as dress; 
hip, smooth measure and allow six inches for fullness; length of skirt from 
cord at waist down as long as wanted; sleeve measure the same as dress, only 
not so tight, and take top measure same as arm size, only not so tight. 



Order of Taking 1 Measures for Snirt 

1— Neck. 



2 — Length of shoulder. 

3 — Breast. 

4— Width of back. 

5— Chest. 

6 — Under arm. 



7 — Shoulder slope. 

8 — Length of back. 

9 — Length of front. 
10— Hips. 
11 — Length of skirt. 



Sleeve, 

31— Length. 2— Elbow. 3— Cuff, 



4— Top. 



[20] 



FOR DRAFTING SHIRT, 



Back. 




18 



I&1 



19 



28 



1st. Draw base line or (1), and make 
dots at left hand corner of square and 
one-half of an inch to the right. 

2d. Move square to right one-half 
inch, and make dot (2) at length of 
back; move square to right until back 
shoulder slope measure comes to dot 
(2), and make dot (3) at left-hand corner 
of square. 

3d. Move square to right until under 
arm measure comes to dot (2) and make 
dot (4) at corner of square. 

4th. Square by dot (2) and base line 
or (1), and draw waist line or (5); make 
dot (6) at one-half of hip measure by- 
half inches; square by base line and dot 
(4), and draw line (7); make dot (8) at 
one-half of breast measure less two 
inches, by half inches; square by base 
line and dot (3), and draw line (9); 
square by base Kne and left-hand dot, 
and make dot (10) at "back neck" 
measure; draw line (11) by "back arm 
size" curve; place corner of square to 
dot (10) and length of shoulder measure 
to line (9), and make dot (12); draw 
line (13). ' 

5th. Place square parallel with line 
(7) and width of back measure to base 
line, and make dot ( 14) at end of square 
and two inches above line (7); turn 
square over with "front arm size" curve 
to" dots (8), (14) and (12); draw line (15). 

6th. Square by line (5) and dot (6), 
and make dot (16) eight inches to right 
of line (5); turn square end for end, and 
place "hip spring" line parallel with 
line (5), and draw line (17) by commenc- 
ing two inches to right of line (5), and 
continue as far as "shoulder point" 
line; turn square over and end for end, 
and place " shoulder point" line to dot 
(8), and bring curve to end of line (17); 
draw line (18); draw line (19) by "front 
arm size " curve, so as to join on to line 
(17) and come to length of skirt; line 
(20) from line (19) to length of skirt on 
line (1). 



[ 21 ] 



For Front, 




1st. Draft base line or (1). 

2d. Square out at left band end of base 
line or (1), and draw line (2); make dot (3) 
at " front neck" measure, and dot (4) at J 
inch to right; dot (5) at " depth of front 
neck " measure. 

3d. Square by dot (4) and base line or 
(1), and draw line (6); make dot (7) at 
" front neck" measure. 

4th. Place " back neck " measure at 
dot (3), and make dot (8) at length of 
front measure on base line or (1); move 
square to the right, placing front shoulder 
slope measure to dot (8), and make dot (9 
at left-hand corner of square. 

5th. Move square to right until under- 
arm measure comes to dot (8), and make 
dot (10) at corner of square. 

6th. Square by dot (8) and base line 
or (1), and draw line (11); make dot (12) 
at two-thirds of whole hip measure, 

7th. Square by dot (10) and base line 
or (1), and draw line (13); make dot (14) 
at bust measure, less two inches. 

8th. Square by dot (9) and base line or 
(1), and draw line (15). 

9th. Place corner of square to dot (7), 
and length of shoulder measure to line 
(15), and make dot 16; draw line 17; place 
''front neck" arrow to dot (5) and curve 
to dot (7), and draw line 18. 

10th. Place square on line (13) and 
chest measure to base line, and make dot 
(19) at end of square, two inches above 
line (13). Place front arm size curve to 
dots (19) and (14), so as to follow line (13) 
one inch; draw line (20); turn square over 
with front arm size curve to dots (19) and 
(16), so as to join on line (20) with same 
curve; draw line (21). 

11th. Square by dot (12) and line (11), 
and make dot (22) 8 inches to right of line 
(11); place hip spring line parallel with 
line (11), and curve to dot (22); draw line 
(23) by commencing two inches to right of 
line (11), and continue to "shoulder point " 
line; then turn square over, and end for 
end, and same point to dot (14), and make 
curve join on line (23); draw line (24); 
draw line (25), with front arm-size curve 
to length of skirt; and (26) from (25) to 
line (1) at length of skirt. 



[22] 




For Sleeve. 

1st. Draft base line or (1); make dot (2) at 
left-hand corner of square; dot (3) at length 
from wrist to elbow; dot (4) at full length of 
sleeve; dot (5) by counting to the left of dot 
(4) three inches, which is inside length. 

2d. Square by base line and dot (2), and 
draw line (6); make dot (7) at cuff measure by 
half inches. 

3d. Square by base line and dot (3), and 
draw line (8); make dot (9) at elbow measure 
by half inches. 

4th. Square by base line and dot (5); draw 
line (10), and make dot (11) at top measure 
by half inches. 

5th. Square by base line and dot (4), and 
draw line (12) out about four inches; then turn 
square end for end and place "shoulder point" 
line to base line at dot (4), with curve side to 
line (12), and continue same around curve; 
draw line from dot (9) to dot (11) by placing 
"hip spring" line to line (12) and dots (11) 
and (9); draw straight line from dot (9) to dot 
(7); make cuff to suit taste. 



PATTERN 




"HiFIESBEIs! 






For milliners, dressmakers and private families. Place the pattern on the material 
to be cut and run the Tracer round the pattern. This makes a clear dotted line on the 
goods which is easily followed in cutting. Also suitable for tracing designs for applica- 
tion, embroidery and other fancy work. 

MAG-IO PLAITBR. 

This plaiter is well known and needs but little expla- 
nation. The needles are flat and made of the best 
quality of steel, tempered and polished. There is a 
little box on the back of each Plaiter to contain the 
needles. This is a very good and popular machine. 
With each one will be found printed directions and 72 needles. 

Send for Catalogue No. 20, and 

Price-List of Useful Inventions. 

WIESTER & CO., 11 New Montgomery Street, 

San Francisco, Cal. 































































































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FOR CUTTING 

LADIES' AND CHILDHEFS CLOTHING. 

J. A. STUDABECKER, Inventor and Proprietor, 



PATENT APPLIED FOR. 



20 



22 



23 



OFFICE OF THE 

" 306 DAVIS STREET, • 

SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA. 

Ladies, we wish to call your attention to the fact that we have established a 
urchasing Company, by which we are enabled to give those living in the 
untry and at a distance from the city, all the benefits of the city buyer. We 
ve secured the services of H. M. Covert as buyer in the city, who will attend 
rsonally to all orders that may be entrusted to us, and guarantee satisfaction in 
cases. 

Our manager is traveling at all times in the interior, and carries with him 
jnples of all kinds of staple goods, which will enable those who may have the 
easure of ordering through him all the benefits of a trip to the city, and more, 
r we claim we can buy for less than inexperienced persons. Being on the 
arket at all times we of course buy at the very lowest prices, and our patrons 
jceive the benefit, as all we charge over first cost is five per cent on small orders, 
id two and a-half on large orders. We will fill any order, no matter how small 
r how large, on the shortest notice. 

In ordering dress goods, always send samples if possible; if not, describe 
oods wanted as near as possible, and we will get samples, and forward same to 
lioose from. 

All small packages can be sent by mail. 

In sending money always send by Post Office Order or Registered Letter. 

Address all communications to the 

GOLDEN STATE PURCHASING COMPANY, 



SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 
Yours Respectfully, 

GOLDEN STATE PURCHASING CO., 

J. A. STUDABECKER, 

Manager. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



\ . 




I 013 973 175 P • 



Nicoll, The raiEak, 

BRANCH OF NEW YORK. 

NSPECT OUR IMMENSE STOCK!!! 



DO NOT FAIL TO SEE 

c^THE ELECTRIC LIGHT-<g© 

Call and see the Electric Light at Nicholl's, by whi.h colors and quality may be seen as 

clear at WIGHT as at NOONDAY. 

To Order. 

Black Doeskin 



To Order, 




FROM 


Pants, - 


- $5 00 


Suits, - 


- - 20 00 


Overcoats, 


- 15 00 



Dress Coats, - 20 00 

Genuine 6 X f^^S^^^ 




PROM 



Pants, - - $7 00 
White Vests, - 3 00 
Fancy Vests, - - 6 00 
Beaver Suits, - 60 00 



ENGLISH COEDS FOB HUNTING SUITS. 



Samples, with instructions for Self-Measure 1 

ment, Sent Free. 



ONLY WHITE LABOR Employed, and none but EXPERIENCED and 
FIRST-CLASS CUTTERS. 

A Small Stock of Uncalled-for Coods— Pants* 

Vests, Coats, Overcoats, Ulsters— 

at immense Reduction. 

The only House in the City that receives Fresh Patterns\and New York and Paris 

Fashions Weekly. 

Finest Stock of Woolens in the World, 

Nicoll, The Tailor's Grand Tailoring Emporium, 

727 Market Street, San Francisco. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 973 175 A 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 






013 973 175 A • 



